20061030

Philadelphia Tarpit


tarpit  [tahr-pit] –noun. A seepage of natural tar or asphalt, esp. an accumulation that has acted as a natural trap into which animals have fallen and sunk and had their bones preserved. (Origin: 1830–40)

Silence of the night is shattered by a chilling shriek cascading through a damp primeval forest. Somewhere hidden in the darkness a behemoth fights to escape, trapped by the thick gooey mass of black tar oozing from the recesses of hell. Unable to extricate itself from the deadly pit the behemoth struggles to no avail as the movement only secures the beast’s untimely dead. With its fate is sealed, only time stands between the beast and its final resting place. Hours upon hours pile on the back of this forgotten creature as searing thirst claws at its flesh. Soon the behemoth will succumb to the lack of water no longer able to keep its head erect, as the strength ebbs it will fall silently into the black sewer never to seen again. The scene disappears as a noise from the concourse loudspeaker awakes me from a brief nap on the uncomfortable bench specifically designed to prevent anyone from reclining, regardless of how long you are caged in this sterile environment.

The day was another typical one day grinder to Philadelphia and back. The day although difficult was going exactly according to schedule. I arose at 4:00 am to catch the 6:00 am direct flight to Philadelphia. Arriving at 10:30 am, we flagged the rental car shuttle just as we stepped onto the sidewalk from the concourse. I mentioned to my business associate, Richard, that was a positive sign indicating we would have a flawless day. In the rental car lot we boarded a new white Chevy Impala from the executive aisle and bounded out of the airport for a 90 minute drive to meet our new client. Unfamiliar with the Brandywine district back roads, but armed with a computer generated directions we navigated narrow winding streets and obtuse intersections effortlessly without incident arriving at the appointed address fifteen minutes early. It was a perfectly executed plan covering 1500 miles with a Swiss watch maker’s precision.

Our meeting was a success as we met with the director of facilities and director of capital improvements. They received glowing recommendations from a previous client, researched our company and without our knowledge decided to offer us the job without requesting proposals from other companies. This is a highly unusual circumstance for a public entity. After a quick tour of the site and we jumped back into the rental car for our country drive back to the airport after only spending 2-1/2 hours with the client. It was a beautiful fall day with the maples ablaze in orange and red set against the bright green hills as we drove the back roads with the windows rolled down.

Our first sense of concern was how early the rush hour traffic started on the back roads. It was only 3:15 and the roads were already clogged resembling virtual parking lot. We maneuvered the highway inch by inch with an increasing sense of urgency until we reached the accident which was causing the delay. It was the normal mating of a Ford Taurus and a Chevy Suburban. For some strangle reason these two vehicle are attracted to each other while at high rates of speed. Passing the pile of shattered glass and chrome we took our time rubber necking at a crawl like each car before us in the traditional Philadelphia ritual. Almost 30 minutes of our precise schedule was consumed by the unplanned mechanical pornography. Driving the rest of the way to the airport utilizing my best over aggressive macho Philadelphia attitude, we arrived back at the airport just in time to board for our 5:00 pm flight back home. We dropped the car off right next to the attendant, who immediately gave us a receipt as we bounded back onto the moving shuttle bus. Three minutes to clear the car rental facility, not bad. We reclaimed six minutes of our schedule.

Our spirits were high as we reclaimed another five minutes by finding an open ticket kiosk. The last hurdle was clearing the security checkpoint after which we would have executed our game plan with commanding precision only requiring the airlines to fulfill their part of the agreement, an agreement which was confirmed with the purchase of two $1100 tickets. Punching the flight number at the kiosk in front of the counter a chill ran down my spine as the dreaded phase appeared “Unable to check in. Please see the flight attendant at the gate.” I looked at Richard, “This is never a good sign, is fact this is a very bad omen.” This typically means the airlines have such distasteful news that they need to get you through security ensuring you’re not armed before they break the bad news to you. Past security the Philadelphia airport at 5:30 pm resembles a Hollywood disaster film set, with throngs of panicked wild eyed customers running and screaming in a sea of chaos and confusion. The phase “City of Brotherly Love” doesn’t come to mind as crazed adults trample small children trying to escape this seventh circle of hell.

Slowly we approach the gate only to find the counter crowded with agents, heads bent checking schedules on small green screens, typing away with mindless fury. We wait in line for a small French girl with a pleasant smile and calming demeanor. It is clear from her polite helpful manner that she has not been hardened or scarred by the human carnage surrounding her. She informs us that our flight to Chicago is delayed 2-1/2 hours and it is probable that we will miss our connection home from Chicago. If we were not boarded by 7:20 pm we would be staying overnight in Chicago. Normally I consider this a good trade, Philadelphia for Chicago. Having traveled to Chicago over fifty times in the past two years, I am well acquainted on how to get in trouble in the city with big shoulders. The primary concern is that I am scheduled to fly to Charleston at 8:30 am in the morning and assumed I would return home to pick up my luggage before heading to Charleston. It was time to get creative about our situation. Utilizing years of travel guile we poured over the flight monitors and travel schedules to find alternate routes home. Houston was overbooked. Atlanta was overbooked. The connection through Washington did not work. It didn’t appear that home was going to be a viable option tonight.

Glancing down at my leg I notice a patch of tar on my pant leg and shoe. Slowly I began to realize that we were partially stuck in a modern day tarpit. I refuse to comprehend the futility of struggling by continuing to extricate myself from this black hole of hell. Finally a solution dawned on me like a single ray of sunlight peaking through black circling storm clouds. Why travel from Philadelphia to Chicago, Chicago to Kansas City, then in the morning travel from Kansas City to Atlanta, then Atlanta to Charleston; why not just travel Philadelphia to Charleston tonight. Without tomorrow’s travel itinerary in hand I called the office to talk to Mary and had her contact the Charleston hotel and check to see if they could an extra night to my reservation. A few moments later my cell phone rang, retrieving a message from Mary “You are confirmed for today in Charleston”. I may be on to something here. Clearing the first hurtle I returned to the demur French girl with the smile, asking if there was a flight to Charleston tonight. This is when she informs me of my dilemma. I was booked on US Airlines in the morning and the second part of my return trip was United Airlines through the code sharing partnership. I could book the Charleston flight but I need to go to from Terminal D to Terminal C to talk with US Air and have them book me on the flight.

I look at Richard and say “It’s been nice knowing you, but I’m dumping your ass and getting out of this mess. You’re on your own.” Survival ends up being an individual sport in the seventh circle of hell. Richard knows the call. He has elite status on at least two airlines. This is one of the written road warrior codes of conduct when all hell breaks loose, save yourself. You are no good to the organization “missing in action”.

I offer Richard one piece of advice as I depart, “I would stick on the Chicago flight. The way things usually work is that Chicago is just purgatory and after a delay they will let you back home. You will probably make it home after midnight, if not get a room at the Fairmont Hotel in the loop and have a steak at the Palm Restaurant across the street. You’ll like the food there. All your need to do is take the Orange CTA train and get off at the Randolph street exit. It costs $1.50. Good Luck!”

Turning to leave my cell phone rings. A computer begins “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight delay alert. United Airlines flight 1027 to Chicago leaving Philadelphia airport at 5:01 pm is delayed. The new departure time is now 7:20 pm.” I look at my watch and it is 5:12 pm. Now that’s what I consider totally useless information. If I’m not on the airplane and moving down the runway at 5:01, by 5:12 it is even apparent to me that my flight is delayed? What am I support to do with this information? I shake my head and turn toward the moving walkway to take me to Terminal C.

A brief brisk ten minute walk thought the screaming masses of trapped travelers terminates at US Air gate C26 where I wait in line twenty minutes before I was informed by a thin black nervous gay gate agent that in order for US Air to process my request, United first needs to make a reservation on the Charleston flight then release my ticket to US Air. “Sir you need to go back to Terminal D and get United to process the reservation.” Glancing at the gate I notice the departure time is 6:30 pm and it is already 6:10 pm. Recognizing my concern he offers what he considers a gesture to comfort me.

“Don’t worry this flight is delayed three hours due to weather somewhere.” He says with a twinkle in his eye.

Walking away I mumble “Great I feel much better now knowing that I’m going to spend another three hours in hell.”

Weather seems to be airlines standard response for any misjudgment or ineptness in operational execution. It is the one thing no one can deny, yes there is weather somewhere, but I’m not sure I get the connection yet. A cloud appears over Dallas and my Philadelphia-Chicago flight takes a three hour hit? A snowstorm in Buffalo and all west coast flights from Washington DC are cancelled? A butterfly flaps its wings in the Sahara of Africa and Miami airport closes for the night? Why don’t you just tell me the truth, “We are not allowed wake up the union mechanic from his nap until 6:15 and after that time he will look at the plane?” Shaking my head I start back to Terminal D to talk to United again.

On the moving walkway between terminals my phone rings again. A drone of a computer voice begins “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight delay alert…….” This time the voice changes from an automated female to a recorded male. “This is Chicago O’Hare meteorologist. Due to low clouds and limited visibility we have instituted air traffic flow control. Travelers can expect delays of 60 to 90 minutes for flights leaving Chicago O’Hare International Airport until 11:30 pm.”

Before I can place the phone back in my pocket it rings again. My favorite computer girl says “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight status update. United Airlines flight 2421 to Kansas City is scheduled to depart Chicago O’Hare airport on time at 7:53 pm.” I stare at the phone like I’m in some type of reoccurring nightmare. You just called me telling me of a 60 to 90 minute delay and now it’s on time? The flight is delayed, it is on time, it is delayed, and oh hell you don’t have any idea what is going on!!! I have found the automated flight status update program useless and even annoying. The only benefit of the system I can assign is to allow friends and family to listen to frontline battlefield reports informing them how the war is going. If you’re on the frontline there is no lack of understanding as to the status of the war.

Back in Terminal D, I pass Richard sitting at the gate looking surprised. “Thought you were going to Charleston, you decided to have dinner with me in Chicago instead?”

Pulling the wad of tickets from my breast pocket I say “Well I was still trying to get to Charleston, but our new girl didn’t know how to complete the ticket transfer properly.”

With a smile knowing he had the opportunity to pimp me a bit, he says “Well I saw you were delayed to Charleston by three hours. You probably didn’t have anything else to do and probably needed the exercise. I like how the airlines look out for your health”

“Hey screw you too! Remember while you’re waiting to get out of O’Hare, I’ll be stretched out in that luxury bed in Charleston” I replied wiping the sweat from my forehead.

“You want to bet who gets back first?” Richards says with a smile.

“You’re on! The first one to get back on the ground in the desired location should call the other.” I scan the counter for my cute French girl.

Quietly I stand in line waiting for my turn. “Next” she says blinking her sapphire blue eyes. “I remember you, but I don’t recall what you needed?” as she looked at my tickets. “US Air told me that United needs to release the ticket in order to take control of the reservation and print me a boarding pass for the Charleston flight.” For the next ten minutes she types and enters information on dozens of screens. I watch her small lips pucker as she works through the complex system of screens. Finally she looks up, smiles parting her lips and says “This should do it. Give this ticket to the US Air gate agent in Terminal C.”

I waved goodbye to Richard as I head back to Terminal C. My phone rings again. “Hello this is Orbitz with another automated flight delay alert…….” I hang up before hearing the complete message. “Let me guess the Chicago-Kansas City flight is delayed.” On the moving walkway between terminals I realize that if I miss my first flight leg to Charleston in the morning, the airline will automatically cancel my return flight reservation. I call Mary at the office to have her reinstated the return flight on American Airlines for Monday from Charleston through Atlanta to Kansas City. A few minutes later my phone rings and I answer assuming it was the office. “Yeah, were you able to reinstate the flight?”

A voice replies “Hello this is Orbitz with another automated flight delay alert…….” I hang up, well aware of the problems in Chicago. Arriving back at gate C26 there is no one to be found. As soon as the last flight closed everyone working at the gate disappeared. I position myself in a seat at the bar across from the gate with an unobstructed view of the entire area. I order vodka on the rocks and wait for the gate agents to return.

There are two middle aged gentlemen at the opposite end of the bar waiting for the Charleston flight. Their gestures indicate that they have spent the majority of the afternoon sitting in the bar drinking and waiting. They are now to the point where they are loud and really having fun. One of them has been taking an informal poll with people passing by the bar, turning it into a game. A couple strolls by the bar with their heads hanging in oblivious despair. The guy leans out from his seat and yells to the couple “Let me guess US Air?” The couple quietly nod while the bar breaks out into a roar of laughter. A few minutes later a flight crew in a tight cluster runs at high speed past the bar. Again a voice screams “Let me guess US Air?” The roar from the bar makes the crowd sitting in the concourse turn to see what is going on. I entertain myself by watching the activity in the bar. Each new patron to wander off the concourse into the bar is greeted with the same question in a booming loud voice. “Let me guess US Air?” Each affirmative response is greeted with another roar of laughter and back slapping.

Finally the thin gay guy and a heavy short stern black lady return to the gate. I wander over to exchange my ticket for a boarding pass which will officially guarantee I will be taking the flight if it does in fact depart. I hand my ticket to the black lady; looking at it she twists her face with anguish. “This is for Charleston. I’m working the Minneapolis flight right now. Go away until we finish.” Slowly I turn to walk across the concourse back to my seat it the bar when I hear the drunk guy scream at me “Let me guess US Air?” Smiling, I nod allowing the bar to erupt again with laughter.

The phone rings and it is Mary from the office. “OK we got you reinstated on the flight you were booked on for Monday. It cost an additional $650 dollars. You want the confirmation number?” It takes a moment for the information to sink in.

“Wait, you’re telling me that they charged me another $650 dollars to reinstate a flight I was already on and already paid for?” as my voice started to reveal my anger.

The voice on the phone replied “They said that you can not change your travel itinerary without paying for the difference on the fare.”

On the verge of losing my temper I note “I did not change my travel schedule. It’s the same flight. There is no change. I was even willing to let them have the fee for the missed leg! Did you tell them that we would all feel much better if they would just put a gun to my head while they are robbing me!!!?”

I put the phone away in total disbelief. How the hell does this system work? Could this be the customer service that is causing the legacy carriers to go bankrupt? How soon do you think I’ll book another American Airlines flight? They will screw anyone they can get into their system and treat you like dirt in the process. It is now my mission to screw the legacy carriers out of every dollar I can. It’s only fair. The system is fat, bloated and totally out of touch with the business traveler which is the primary source of revenue for these unresponsive pigs. Do they understand why the no-frills carriers are kicking the snot out of the legacy carriers? As soon as the low cost carriers open international routes the legacy carriers will cease to exist.

My thoughts return to the concourse as another “Let me guess US Air” echoes in the bar. Finally a voice comes over the intercom. “This is the last call for flight 806 to Minneapolis, Minnesota at gate C26. All ticketed passengers should be on board.” I wait another five minutes before approaching the thin black gay guy at gate C26.

“Could you get me a boarding pass for the Charleston flight?” as I hand him the ticket.

Shaking his head he looks into the green screen. “This says your traveling to Chicago not Charleston. I can’t issue a boarding pass until it has the right destination. You need to go back to United at Terminal D one more time.”

With a serious face puzzled I ask “You’re kidding me, right?” Giving me a timid puppy dog look he mumbled “No.”

“It’s almost departure time and I want to be sure that I will in fact get a seat on this flight if I go back to Terminal D?”

“Don’t worry I’ve got a seat reserved for you.”
He lifted his arm horizontal and wriggling his wrist is a short sweeping motion he indicates I should hurry up and be on my way.

While on the moving walkway between terminals my phone rings, “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight delay alert. United Airlines flight 2421 to Kansas City is scheduled to depart Chicago O’Hare airport at 7:53 pm is delayed. The new departure time is now 10:10 pm”. I smile, thinking that poor Richard doesn’t have a chance of winning our bet.

Arriving back at the Terminal D Chicago gate I discover the flight has departed and my little French girl is nowhere to be found. Just my luck! I glance over at the costumer service desk and notice a long line of very angry frustrated travelers. It appears the crowd will be starting a riot any moment. Deciding I don’t have the time to mess with so called “costumer service” system. It really is a system in the airport designed to punish you. Look here valued traveler we will show you how unpleasant your trip can be, just come by customer service and complain. Instead of enduring another episode of verbal abuse, I pick out a senior flight attendant standing alone of an empty gate and approach her.

“Ma’am, please excuse me, I am in need of a hero today. I’m hoping you could qualify?” As I hand her my papers as she looks at me with a “this better be simple” look from over top of her black rim reading glasses. I succinctly explain my problem as she looks into another green screen. She snips “US Air is wrong our records show they have the ticket.” Picking up the phone she calls gate C26 and begins to rank the thin gay guy on the other end of the phone with a big legacy carrier attitude. All of a sudden her voice changes inflection as she says “Oh that is correct. Oh no, I was mistaken Yes sir, I understand. Yes sir, I will.” I raise my eyebrows in disbelief. Did I really hear one of these hardened battle axes admit that they were wrong? No, I didn’t hear that and dismiss the admission as a hallucination created by my exhaustion. After a few more moments of typing she hands me the pile of tickets back with another new piece of paper added to the collection. “This should do it. We apparently did not have the right destination listed. You should have no problem now.”

On the moving walkway back to terminal C for the fourth time the phone rings. “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight delay alert. US Airlines flight 907 to Charleston……” I guess that last trip to Terminal D worked because my phone is now flooded with Charleston flight delay calls? Approaching gate C26, I hear a scream from the bar “Let me guess, US Air?” I turn and nod allowing the bar to roar again in laughter. This time one of the drunks at the bar cuts the celebration short. “Hey, we know him. He has been here before. No fair. He doesn’t count.”

Without speaking I give the little gay guy my bundle of tickets that are now about an inch thick. He smiles, pushes a button and my boarding pass is issued. Somewhat stunned I look at the thin white boarding pass, confirming my name, the right flight, the right day, and that I have a seat assignment. Looking at the clock it has taken me almost three hours to get this one ticket changed. A few minutes later the stern black lady returns to begin boarding the long delayed flight to Charleston.

As the announcement is made to begin boarding the crowd begins to act like a pack of hungry dogs rushing the lady at the gate as if she had a bucket of bones. The gay guy moves aside unsettled by the desperate surging of the crowd. Slowly the plane fills as the passengers elbow each other jockeying for better position. I’m one of the last to board the plane. The plane is a small regional jet with a capacity of about 40 passengers. My seat is the last seat in the plane. This is the seat they use to punish their most loyal customers that pay triple the fare of everyone else. Approaching my seat I notice the flight attendant in the gallery in the rear of the plane is on the phone with the pilot. She appears concerned as her eyes dart back and forth scanning the irritable group.

After everyone is seated and has stowed all their carry on luggage, the pilot comes on the intercom. “We have a switch that is sticking. We have called maintenance to take a look at it after which we will be on our way. It should only take about five minutes” I think to myself, is that five minutes in the real world or is that five minutes in the airline world? From the front of the plane I hear the two drunks bellow “Let me guess US Air”. No one laughs this time.

There is a lot of activity in the front cabin as an array of maintenance personnel mill about whispering to each other. The flight attendant in the rear of the aircraft hunkers down for the wrath of what is to come. After about thirty minutes the pilot comes on the intercom. “The maintenance staff needs to replace the switch and they have sent for the replacement part. It takes about five minutes to replace the switch, however in order to replace the switch we need to power down the plane. This will shut off all power and emergency lighting and by rule we need to de-plane the aircraft and wait in the gate area until power is restored.”

Finally exhibiting his frustration the pilot concludes with a parting comment directed at maintenance. “I had noted a problem with this switch last night when this flight arrived and if the maintenance staff has acted on the request to look at this problem we would have not been delayed tonight. I’m sorry for the delay.” There was an ugly groan from the passengers as the hope of escaping from the tarpit was erased. “You can leave your carry on bags on the aircraft if you like, but please take your boarding pass to re-enter the plane.”

The passengers stand slowly and file out of the aircraft past the surprised gay guy at the gate. When all of the passengers were assembled back at the gate an announcement poured from the intercom. “We expect maintenance to complete replacement of the part and testing shortly. Our new scheduled departure time is 11:15 pm.” Twenty of the forty passengers wander across the concourse toward the bar. As soon as the two drunks were visible the entire contents of the bar screams “Let me guess US Air?” They both raised their arms in victory like two warriors returning home from battle.

By this time my eyes are burning and I am unable to neither read nor concentrate. My legs are throbbing from walking six miles back and forth between the two terminals. My back is aching from carrying my computer bag for almost 18 hours. My mind is numb from lack of rest and stimulation. Sitting isolated in a sterile environment like an airport is exhausting. If it wasn’t for watching the people running around insane from being trapped in the system, I would have nothing to do.

My phone rings “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight delay alert. United Airlines flight 2421 to Kansas City is scheduled to depart Chicago O’Hare airport at 7:53 pm is delayed. The new departure time is now 11:30 pm”. Once again I smile thinking about poor Richard. He may not be staying in Chicago for the night, but I might still have a chance of winning our bet.

Before I can put my phone away it rings again. “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight delay alert. US Airlines flight 907 to Charleston……”

I hang up and mumble “Yeah, I heard. Tell me something I didn’t know.”

Time slows to a painful crawl. Each second seems like an eternity as I stare at the beaten broken passengers strewn across the gate. Earlier in the evening there was the most delightful baby boy running around the concourse being chased by his mother. He has now been reduced to a babbling mass of tears and screams as his mother attempts to consol his tired body.

11:15 comes and goes without comment. The thin gay guy seems to be handling the crowd well as he calms each new threat just before they attempt to strangle the living daylights out of the only US Air representative in harms way. I can see why they put him is this position. He is nimble and swift on his feet with agility. Plus how much satisfaction can you get from beating up a little gay guy. He ducks around the jetway and disappears for a few minutes.

Upon returning he grabs for microphone and makes an announcement. “The mechanics have installed the part, but are having a problem with testing. We are going to give them another twenty minutes which will give us a departure time of 12:45 am.”

Silence of the night is shattered by a chilling shriek cascading through a damp primeval forest. Somewhere hidden in the darkness a behemoth fights to escape, trapped by the thick gooey mass of black tar oozing from the recesses of hell. Unable to extricate itself from the deadly pit the behemoth struggles to no avail as the movement only secures the beast’s untimely dead. With its fate is sealed, only time stands between the beast and its final resting place. Like the behemoth I understand that I will never escape this seventh circle of hell. Someday they will find and marvel at my ancient bones. I no long maintain the strength to struggle. The perpetual motion of the last ten years will end somewhere in the forgotten depths of the Philadelphia airport.

My slow painful death is disturbed by my phone ringing. “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight delay alert. US Airlines flight 907 to Charleston……”

I did not hang up this time; the phone just went dead from the more than 200 hundred flight delay alerts. The system was not satisfied beating me into a slow painful death, but it had to also suck the life out of my little phone. This is great! I don’t typically bring my phone charger on day trips, so I have no way to restore my connection to the outside world. Losing your phone is the modern day equivalent of having both eyes poked out with a stick. You are no longer a functioning part of society. In most airports there is a little rubber room at the end of the concourse for all the unfortunate travelers who have lost their phone. The rest of us avert our eyes when we see these poor souls and now I’m condemned to be one of them. What did I do to deserve this day?

No one is surprised when 12:45 am comes and goes without comment. However, the thin gay guy is getting really nervous as the crowd is getting ugly. He keeps running down to the jetway to talk with maintenance then comes back a little more jumpy each time. I can see his time is running out. The crowd is beginning to think that there is indeed satisfaction from beating up a little US Air gay guy especially at 1:00 am in the morning. He calls in for reinforcement and flees the gate like a jack rabbit. I remember thinking that the gate must be on fire or something? The last I see of him is literally running down the concourse toward security. This can not be a good sign.

All of a sudden his replacement appears as a shadow at the end of the jetway. Walking toward the top of the gate she emerges into the light. It takes my tired eyes a few seconds to focus. Oh my god, it’s the “cleaner”. Not the janitor, but the “cleaner”. The one the mob calls in to dispose of the bodies when things go terribly wrong. You know the guy in Pulp Fiction Winston Wolfe. A harden steel cold blooded eagle that cleans up the worst of messes. US Air is not taking any chances, they have called in the professionals. She was a short stout East German lady in her fifties with thick tree trunk legs and a massive build. Her salt and pepper black hair was rolled into a tight bun on top of her head. There was no attempt to disguise this determination with girly makeup. Her fingers were like big sausages stuck on hands that resembled giant ham hocks. She had no ankles, just thick calves that disappeared into wide industrial black nurse’s shoes. She didn’t really walk like the rest of us, but rather rocked back and forth while alternately extending massive legs. As the earth shook mere mortals parted clearing her path.

Man, I bet no one has ever knocked her off her feet. There was no question that she was in control. I looked around the gate at our beaten whipped group and thought I bet she could pulverize this group without even disturbing the sawdust on the floor. Philadelphia can be a tough town and over the years in the airport she must have kick some major ass. I was impressed.

She immediately stood behind the podium taking a broad defensive stance and picked up the microphone. “The maintenance staff is having problems testing the switch. We are going to try to start the engines. If we are able to start the engines we will leave. If we are not able to start the engines we will go to plan B and you do not want to hear plan B.” The microphone is returned to the podium as she picks up a clipboard and crosses her massive arms waiting for the next challenger to approach. I was surprised that no one went up to the podium to discuss the options, or should I say the lack of options. We were all content leave the “cleaner” undisturbed.

At 1:15 am the two flight attendants scurry up the jetway next to the “cleaner”. The “cleaner” picks up the microphone and in a stern German accent announces “The engines have started. We will be departing. Please show me your boarding pass as you board the plane.” We all file past the cleaner as she shouts out the seat number allowing the flight attendants to record it. I realize she is even larger than she appears from a distance as I pass her on my way to the plane. Assembled back into the plane I am reunited with my computer bag. Once again the flight attendant in the rear of the aircraft is nervous talking on the phone with the pilot. I think, “No don’t tell me something else is broken?”

There is a commotion in the front cabin with the cleaner. I overhear the flight attendant on the phone say “What do you mean our count was 39 we are suppose to have 38.” For the next ten minutes our two flight attendants march up and down the aisle counting heads. I wonder how long it is going to take them to do a complete inventory of the passengers in order to determine who the extra body is. From the front of the plane I hear the cleaner say “Oh the hell with it just shut the cabin door.” Now that’s someone in control. I’m assuming the cleaner has bent a number of regulations in order to get this flight off the gate, the least of which is letting the plane to depart if “it starts”. I’m sure nowhere in the operational manual does it say “If all these procedures fail, just try to start the damn thing. If it starts push off from the gate before it stalls.” A harden steel cold blooded eagle making decisive decisions cleaning up a seven hour mess. The right person in the right place is what I admire.

The wheels leave the runway at Philadelphia airport at 1:48 am and immediately begin to wonder how I will get to the hotel in Charleston. I’m the last person on the plane and by the time I get off the plane all the taxis will be taken. I have never been to Charleston. I have no idea where the hotel is. At this point I am so tire and exhausted that I am unable to relax or consider falling asleep. My burning eyes stare blindly out the window watching the small town lights pass in the early morning hours.

At 3:20 am we touchdown at Charleston airport and taxi to the gate. The ordeal is about to end. I walk out of the plane down the concourse past the worn crowd waiting for luggage into the cool evening air. I snicker thinking at least I don’t have to wait for luggage because my luggage is waiting for me at home. To my surprise there is a long string of taxis waiting for the delayed flight. Apparently the transportation company knowing the delayed status of the flight called all the cabs in town to the airport. You know, I’ll going to like this town as I jump into a cab. As we begin our thirty minute drive to the hotel I mumble to myself “Hello this is Orbitz with an automated flight delay alert. US Airlines flight 907 to Charleston……”

The cab driver turns his head and asks “Did you say something?”

Rolling down the cab window a crack I turn “Yeah, what is the weather going to be like this weekend?

“Sir you picked a beautiful weekend to visit us.”, as the taxi exits the interstate.

A few minutes later the cab drivers turns and points at a high rise building in front of us and says “This is your hotel as you can tell they are doing some work on it.”

Stunned and confused I look at the structure. Doing some work on it is this year’s understatement. We are pulling into a complete construction site. It is not possible to determine what type of structure this is going to be with all the steel beams and open trusses. As we circled a parking lot filled to construction vehicles and storage containers I have no idea on how to enter the construction site let alone the alleged hotel. Every square foot of ground is covered with piles of gravel, iron pipe, wood framing and electrical conduit. Hey, I’m familiar with a construction site, that’s what I do and let me tell you this is not a hotel, this is a construction site. Weaving his way through the construction supplies and temporary fencing, the taxi driver pulls up to a small temporary construction trailer attached to a remote corner of the structure and stops.

Smiling he points “This is the temporary entrance to the hotel.”

I look at him with bloodshot eyes and say “Are you sure this hotel is open for business?”

He smiles and replies “Yes sir, they are open for business.”

Getting out of the cab I pay the fare and ask “Do you have a business card so I can call if this place is closed?”

As the lights of the taxi disappear in the dust of the temporary access road, I slip his business card into my pocket. “Oh shit, my phone is dead. I’m stuck here. Maybe I’ll just break into this construction trailer and wait until someone shows up for work in a couple of hours”

Slowly I drag myself up the wooden steps to find the door open. As I step in, the corridor could be called a hotel like space, I guess. Walking down the corridor I stumble into a larger reception area with a temporary pile of furniture that sort of looks like a reception desk. Hidden from view a young girl is sitting on a folding metal chair decides to stand up when she hears me approach the collection of furniture. “May I help you?”

Startled I respond “Christ, you scared the crap out of me.” Regaining my composure I ask “Is this a hotel and are you open for business?”

Unflustered by this worn traveler she asks “What’s the name?”

“Mr. Blue.” I reply looking around the makeshift lobby. “Nice look you got here. I bet we could call architectural digest and have them come out to snap a few shots.”

“Mr. Blue, your room is 925. The elevators are around the corner and to the end of the hall. Have a good evening.” As the night manager hands me the keys.

Turning past the corner into the hall I am surrounded by only a concrete shell. No drywall, no wallpaper, no pictures, no carpet, no flooring, no furnishings of any sort. There are copper pipes stubbed up against the wall with orange cones next to them. There are holes in the concrete walls with electrical wires hanging out with small ribbons of warning tape tied to the ends. Along one side a long plastic sheet divides the space where wall is going to be.

I begin to wonder what my room is going to look like. Is it going to be another concrete shell with a pile of construction cardboard tossed in the corner for a bed? Will it be decorated with orange traffic cones and OHSA safety posters hung on the walls? Will my furniture be scaffolding with old paint buckets to wash my face in? As the elevator door opens, it is once again bare of carpet and wall coverings. I’m so tired that an empty concrete shell is all I need to get some rest.

The elevator door opens on the ninth floor and to my surprise it looks like a normal hotel corridor. Not that you can tell a lot about a hotel by the corridors. I wander down to room 925 and open the door. Switching on the light I’m surprised to find a completely renovated beautiful furnished room. The room is decorated is a soft mustard motif with an oversized luxury double bed with six white overstuffed pillows and 200 count Egyptian cotton sheets. I think about crying but decide it would be too much effort. In an attempt to get my bearings I look out the window and see the river to the left and the Citadel in the distance on the right. The morning glow is tickling the horizon as the cadets begin to arise for the day.

It is not more than a few minutes before I’ve stripped out of my clothes and am lying in this wonderful luxury bed between the Egyptian cotton sheets. I look at my watch and the time is 4:17 am. This day is now complete. This day was a new milestone for the road warrior. This day was a new record for perpetual motion. Never before in my many years of travel has a day lasted over 24 hours. Never before has a day exacted such an excruciating toll on me both physically and mentally. Never before have I completed the circle 4:00 am to 4:00am. Am I growing old of this investment of effort or is the system becoming more punishing? Is this brutality meant to humble me or to steel my resolve against the inhumanity of the carriers? I feel grateful to have a quiet moment to rest, but feel horribly abused by the entire experience. My body is aching and throbbing like a thumb that has been hit with a hammer. My mind is raw and without focus as if I’ve been drugged. I can no longer process the experience as I drift to sleep.

Sunlight streaming into my face awakes me. I look at the clock and it is 10:30 am. For a brief moment I do not recall where I am. Oh yeah, I thought it was a nightmare. I need to let someone know where I am and that I made it to Charleston. I get out of bed with a modest headache and pull my computer from the travel bag. I’ll just jump on the internet and email the world on my escape from the Philadelphia tarpits. I plug the cable into my computer finding no connection. I search for a wireless network, but there are none to be found. I look at my dead cell phone realizing I don’t have the charger to fire it up. I decide not to use the hotel phone since the rates are usually obscene. My only other option is to go to the front desk and ask where a hotspot might be.

I pull on my clothes from yesterday. Looking in the mirror I am appalled at what I see. A wrinkled, bearded, bloodshot homeless bum. “Man, yesterday put some miles on me and it shows!” There is not much that can be done for me, no razor, no toothbrush, no comb, no deodorant, no mouthwash, no change of underwear, no nothing. My hair looks like I placed my finger in an electric socket. Looking at the bags under my eyes I think “Who says I didn’t bring luggage look at those two overnighters.” The black circles around my eyes give me a raccoon appearance. I look like the drug crazed fiend in reefer madness. “Oh, the hell with it, you can’t look like a beauty queen every day” as I grab my computer and head to the lobby.

The elevator door opens with a young southern bell and her four year old son standing in the corner. My appearance startles her, but she maintains a civil polite demeanor, which is more than can be said for her son. I break the ice with the intellectually stimulating opening line of “Going down?” They both nod as I get in the elevator. The boy plasters himself against his mother’s leg and stares at me like I’m going to bite him. About halfway down to the lobby, the boy can’t bear it any longer “Mommy I’m scared”. To which he is immediately rebuffed by his mother “Shhhhh….!” I look at the small boy trying to ease his concern “You known why I look like this?” Too frightened to speak he just nods his head. “I fell out of an airplane and it drug me down the runway for a long time. So the next time you get on an airplane stay away from the doors unless you want to look like me.” The boy’s eyes are as wide as saucers as the mother gives me this “thanks a lot” look. Take that, the legacy carriers don’t be able to screw that kid because he won’t get over his fear of flying until he’s fifty years old. They didn’t think I could get even with them for yesterday but they were wrong.

The hotel manager has her head down as I approach the counter. Looking up she sees me and involuntarily sucks in a little puff of air like a goldfish eating an insect. She begins by stating the oblivious “Can I help you?” Lady by my appearance it is readily apparent that I can use of whole lot of help. The real question is where to begin? I start with the easy stuff “Is there a shop in the hotel when I can buy some toilettes?”

“No it’s closed”
I try again “Is there a hotel restaurant to get breakfast at?”
“No it’s closed”
“Is there a restaurant within walking distance?”
“No not really”
“Is there a convenience store within walking distance?”
“No not within walking distance.”
“Okay, I noticed there is no coffee maker in the room. Do you have coffee service somewhere in the lobby?”
“No”
Okay, I noticed there is internet service in the room. Do you have internet service somewhere in the lobby?”
“Yes sir we do.”
I win. I found something that would classify as a customer service provided by even the meekest of hotels.
“Sir the internet service is not very strong and the customers tell there is only one place to get good wireless connections.”

I look around the temporary lobby and ask “Where might that be?” She leans over the counter and points down to a folding metal church chair sitting in front of the makeshift reception desk not more than three feet from us.
“You have got to be kidding me?”
“No sir
.”

At this point in time I don’t care any more and turn to plant my scruffy, bearded, wild hair, wrinkled butt down into that metal folding chair. I am finally able to connection to the internet and tell the world that I have in fact survived the most brutal day ever conceived by the demented minds of the travel industry.

For the next thirty minutes I am a pitiful fixture in this makeshift lobby. I am the homeless indigent bum sitting in a wrinkle shirt and two day old underwear begging for a cup of coffee and mumbling something about a war with the airlines. Most of the people checking into the hotel avert their eyes and steer a wide path around me until they realize that I’m sitting under the reception desk at which time they take pity on me.

Another four years old is staring at me like I’m going to bite him, when he can no longer bear it he says “Daddy, give that man a dollar. It’s so sad.” How low have I sunk in just twenty-four hours? Just twenty-four hours ago I was a consummate professional securing a million dollar contract and now look at me.

My journey has been so harrowing that I have totally forgotten the purpose for me being in Charleston. It is the midyear board meeting of a national professional organization of which I am a secretary. It is a position of esteem to be honored as I participate with fifteen other very distinguished professionals from around the nation. Our group will be arriving today at this hotel for a three day board meeting which will determine the policies to govern the organization for the next six months. All of this information comes flooding back to me as I look up and see a fellow board member walk into the hotel. As we make eye contact I smile.

“Mr. Blue, what in the hell happened to you?”

Silence of the night is shattered by a chilling shriek cascading through a damp primeval forest. Somewhere hidden in the darkness a behemoth fights to escape, trapped by the thick gooey mass of black tar oozing from the recesses of hell. Unable to extricate itself from the deadly pit the behemoth struggles to no avail as the movement only secures the beast’s untimely dead. With its fate is sealed, only time stands between the beast and its final resting place. Hours upon hours pile on the back of this forgotten creature as searing thirst claws at its flesh. Soon the behemoth will succumb to the lack of water no longer able to keep its head erect, as the strength ebbs it will fall silently into the black sewer never to seen again.

20061027

Shift of Fortune


“Fortune is not on the side of the faint-hearted.”
Sophocles (c.496 B.C.–406 B.C.)

A cold rain falls as I stand on the runway waiting to board a small regional jet back home. The sound of a 737 is deafening as it slowly creeps by in the darkness like a coal black leviathan. The flat expanse of the tarmac is glistening blue, green and red of the runway lights reflecting off the wet asphalt creating a surreal wonderland. The cool rain is a welcome relief from the hours spent in the stale overcrowded cramped terminal. Closing my eyes I tilt me head back allowing the rain to caress my forehead. It has been the only moment in the past two days where I have been able to relax and take a deep breath of the cool moist air. The scent of fall is in the air as the white dome of the capitol peers from behind the Washington Memorial in the distance. Where as the summer gone? In a brief flash the summer has left without even saying goodbye. Waiting begins all over again until summer returns an eternity from now.

Scanning the darkened figures standing in the rain I look for a familiar face but secretly not really wanting to find anyone I would be required to carry on a discussion with. The angry sullen faces in the gentle rain are upset with the two hour delay from gate 35. My old nemesis gate 35 has not disappointed me with its brutal ritual of chaos and routine bone numbing apathy, but I have conditioned my mind to ignore the tempting opportunity to struggle with its domination of the angry souls within its grasp. Silently I watch an overweight 30 year old with a shave bald head dressed completely in black like an Italian grandmother in mourning. It is oblivious that he is extremely proud of the carefully crafted persona he projects, but to me he appears to be a self-absorbed egocentric nobody. He is pacing back and forth screaming, shaking his fist, pointing at some invisible person he is talking to at the end of his cell phone which is the newest piece of technology available to only to those that find it important to change phones every couple of months. A large black electronic cockroach with a small red light hangs from his ear allowing him to fling both of his pudgy limbs in this public rant he is engaged in. There is little visual evidence to inform you that he not totally stark raving mad talking to the demons tormenting his soul. Watching his circular movements he reminds me of the insane street people in New York I remember as a child. I shake my head thinking that of all the places in the world this “tool” could be going, it just happens to be on my flight.

About the time I decided that I’ve wasted enough energy watching this idiot, I hear him argue with him imaginary friend stating that he has worked to hard for too long and everyone around him wasn’t doing their job. He emphatically closed the accusation with the worn old excuse “it’s not my job and I’m not going to do it myself”. Then he proceeded to asked for the dismissal of his coworkers. What a way to build a team by climbing over the bodies of coworkers to position yourself for a better seat in the cubical farm. There was a time when worked to hard for too long meant twenty years of dedicated service, not a couple months of waltzing in at nine and leaving at five. I’m not sure the world will survive the next generation of self-absorbed egos. The concept of entitlement without real investment is a cancer eating away the foundation of the nation. I’m staring at the pudgy poster boy for the end of the world as we know it. Needing to look away before I succumb to the urge to slap the living crap out of this snot nosed brat, I look at the white dome of the capitol again. Is this really what the founding fathers of this nation were hoping for?

I decide to refocus my attitude on something more positive and begin to reflect on the past two days of meetings and business calls. It has been a long dry spell for securing significant new work for the office for some unexplainable reason. It has eroded my enthusiasm as each failed interview piled on top of each other. Each debriefing providing little insight as to why we were not selected, other than we liked the color of the suit the other team wore or your proposal didn’t have little dividers like the others. I think this is the start of the 30 years olds gaining influence in the decision making process with no understanding of what is of real value in professional relationship.

Business always has a horizon which cannot be seen past, I call it the “cliff”. The cliff is the point past where businesses can no longer project future revenues. The cliff usually resides five to seven months into the future for most of my professional career, but during downturns the cliff slowly creeps closer and closer. At some point where you can begin to see over the edge of the cliff, the abyss of uncertainty becomes evident. Over the years I have come to understand that divine intervention appears to save you from the cliff about the time you are standing on the edge of your desk with a noose around your neck. The repeated salvation allows me to ignore the fear of being eternally stalked by the cliff. About the time I begin to consider what a new career might look like things dramatically change. This recent two day trip was that dramatic change completely reordering the future allowing me to postpone my new career search until sometime in the future.

I was able to arrange three meetings as a result of a recent speaking engagement in the area. The message of the lecture apparently struck an accord with the group, because we immediately received three requests for meetings to discuss proposals. The first meeting was with a county agency which wanted to include our expertise in a series of projects. Going into the meeting I assumed it was two projects which were already designed in which we would provide some construction oversight. We would be added as a specialty consultant under their on-call consultant agreement. As we talked in a small cramped conference room at the end of a dank basement hallway, the magnitude of the project was revealed. It’s not two projects but as many a twenty over the next five years. It’s not just construction oversight, but its full design services with an opportunity to assist on dozens of other projects which fall into our realm of expertise. It is the type of project which a business can forecast staff growth with by providing a predictable revenue stream over the course of five years.

A business negotiation is a lot like playing poker, there are times where the expression of surprise places you into an inferior position. It is imperative that you provide the owner the comfort of knowing that the conversation is completely ordinary and what they are proposing is a matter of standard operations. Executives will only hire your services if you can make them believe that you don’t need the work. It’s a subtle game of courtship, being too eager equates to desperation and desperation can be seen as a fatal disease detectable from miles away. The county’s schedule was impossibly constrained and not realistic, but we promised to deliver because there is no other acceptable answer. Anything is possible; no task is too great during the courtship. Over the years I have learned that schedules work themselves into a predictable rhythm that can seldom be hurried. Our job is to coach the client along the way as complexity of the process reveals the true implementation schedule. Leaving the musty office, we were giddy as schoolgirls envisioning the long potential business relationship.

Our next stop was a private foundation which wanted us to manage a 2.5 million dollar project on an existing facility. Our meeting with the executive director secured the commission which again was on an impossible schedule. As we concluded our meeting and were preparing to leave, we were informed of two additional phases of the work which we were in position to secure. Finally in passing the executive director indicated we should expect some calls from two or three local school districts which she had referred them to us. As it turns out she is also a board member of a state committee which advises school districts from around the metropolitan area. She had been so impressed with our work that she had been recommending us to anyone she came in contact with. If we were giddy after ending the first meeting we were outright ecstatic leaving the second meeting. I recall thinking to myself we are on a roll, we could to run the table.

On the way to the third meeting I fielded a phone call which turned out to be a significant university master plan project for an architect we work for on occasion. The world was becoming a blur as I attempted to write down the information I needed to get to the architect by the end of the day. The architect already had the project and was looking for someone to fill out the team. He informed us that they were exploring a very detailed process with the university as a trial for a much larger master plan process scheduled for the following year. Participating in this study would place us in position to maintain a valued role for future work. I no longer got off the phone and we arrived at our third meeting.

Brimming with confidence, we secured our security passes at the front desk and were led to a conference room on the fourth floor. The meeting was to be informal when I suggested we could stop by just to introduce ourselves. I assumed we would answer a couple of questions and head to the airport. As I turned the corner of the conference room I was surprised to find a dozen officials from various departments representing two separate counties waiting to talk to us. After a brief round of introductions which occurred so quickly that I was unable to write down all the names, they all jumped in with questions simultaneously. I tried to organize the responses of the highly divergent topics. The crowd was focused and energetic leading me to believe there was an underlying purpose to the barrage of inquires. It was oblivious by the questions that one county was further advanced in their thinking and had come to develop a consensus.

The manager of the meeting finally decided to structure the dialogue by explaining what they were up to. Each county had two projects each funded and they had never undertaken a project of this nature revealing their in house expertise was limited. They were interested in hiring us to design and manage all four projects. These projects would be considered test projects in each county. It was anticipated that three to five of these projects could be funded for the next five years under this program and if we were successful we could be in position to assist on all of them. Another long term relationship was being forged. Once again I managed not to reveal my surprise at the magnitude of their request. For the fourth time in a row we agreed to an impossible schedule, shook hands and departed for the airport.

How can months of work and travel yield so little and then in the course of a single 48 hours I secure the possibly years of contracts? What have I said differently that struck such an accord with this particular group? Is it pure the circumstance of being in the right place at the right time? I have a hard time isolating the origin of the shift of fortune from the daily chaos of the moment. The months of marketing meetings and strategic planning seem to have little relevance as the tide shifts. I am beginning to realize that the world is bipolar and is run by the pudgy poster boy for the end of the world that stood in front of me getting on the plane. We just opened the door when the need was right and waltzed into a gold mine. However, there is a single underlying fear caged in the back of my mind, the fear that I will at some point I will tell the world what I really think. Until then I will grit my teeth and smile at the bald headed tool sitting in front of me waiting for the cliff to return.

20060926

Don't Ask The Angels How They Fly

twenty seven years ago

Don't Ask The Angels How They Fly

Knowing there's only so much time,
I don't rejoice less but more.
Knowing how many things will now
not happen, I wish them Godspeed
and pass them on to someone
down the line. I honor my
regrets, the part of me that
never happened or happened wrong
and proceed on course though
the course is not known. Only
the end is known and some days
it's a comfort. We live on
love, whether it's there or
not and rejoice in it even in
its absence. If I had known,
I'd have come here better equipped -
but that's another one of those
things you can't change - as we
can't alter that part of us
that lives on memory, knowing
all the while that time is not
real and that what we are we
never were in the light of that
timeless place where we really
belong, have belonged always.
And what's left then is only
to bless it all in the light of
what we don't and will never
know or at least not here where
the light is only a shadow of
that light we almost see sometimes -
that light that's really home.



Albert Huffstickler
On my 69th birthday - Dec 17, 1996

20060902

I Know


I know she watches
I can hear her breathe
To acknowledge
She will leave

I know she listens
I can feel her sigh
To reveal
She will deny

I know she cares
I can smell her scent
To expose
She will resent

I know she whispers
I can taste her sweat
To divulge
She will regret

I know she dreams
I can see her heart
To declare
She will depart

I know no option
I can not fear
To ignore
She will disappear

20060827

Dreamland

Photo by Mr. Blue

This is one of my favorite photos this summer. No color manipulation, just the right light and a bit of luck. For more photos click the link on the sidebar.

“It is difficult to say what is impossible, for the dream of yesterday is the hope of today and the reality of tomorrow.”

Robert H. Goddard (1882 - 1945)

20060819

Dead Man Walking


Dead Man Walking

The sky is turning steel grey as the sunset highlights wisps of the remaining jet contrails hanging above the worn tarmac. The scene has a sterile industrial appearance with the soft light bouncing off the polished metal machines which line the gates like bees on a honeycomb. The routine has become almost to routine as I follow a well worn path without thinking in a subconscious response like breathing. Entering the concourse through gate B3, I turn left and slowly shuffle with the ear buds pumping Greg Allman singing “the dark side of the road” into my brain as the moving walkway reminds me of its termination for the millionth time in that exceedingly androgynous voice. It’s late and the concourse is largely abandon only littered with a few gate agents milling around waiting for the next cattle car to arrive as I head to gate B21 for the final leg of this trip.

The crowd has always begun to assemble into three simple lines waiting for the jetway door to open. I take my place in line to begin the wait with everyone else. Pain has been welling in the muscles of my lower back which is now attempting to compete for center stage with the low grade thumping headache that has been my companion since Hartford. As my feet burn from standing for the past two days, I mumble to myself "I can’t believe that it’s only Tuesday". The voice over the intercom is droning in the background, but the sound drifts past without importance because it’s someone else’s flight to nowhere in particular. I’ve been conditioned to only respond to the specific drone of my gate like the penguins that can identify their youth after months of separation purely by the small sound of their voice. Like a baby penguin I quietly wait for a familiar drone which begins the process of perpetual motion all over again.

The gate opens as four serious TSA agents scurry down and disappear into the jetway to discover hidden gels and liquids. Travelers have already adapted to the new regulations adeptly discarding all types of viscous personal items without blinking. Less than three days since the spoiled plot to instill fear into the general public, the routine is once again commonplace. The public’s attention span is now so short and dysfunctional that we now act like the last act of terrorism is nothing more than a rerun of a bad sitcom from a show that has been cancelled due to lack of interest. Terrorists are going to need to get creative in order to capture our undivided attention and concern. That’s a problem any more; no one is being creative and simple concepts are being recycled over and over. Even the most diabolical insane terrorist can’t come up with a new idea.

As the door opens again the lines perk up and we start a noticeable shuffle while standing in place. Approaching the gate Ray Charles singing “America the beautiful” filling my head as the TSA agents scurry back out of the jetway past me. I reach up a salute the first TSA agent as he goes by. It just seemed like the thing to do, I guess Ray made me do it. The TSA agent immediately slows to take a good look while a complete shakedown of this potential deviant crosses his mind. The remaining TSA agents press forward distracting him with more important things to do, as they march off like a pack of Elmer Fudds chasing the mythical Bugs Bunny dressed in fatigues and a turban. The line begins to dwindle as I approach the gate in a painful slow baton death march.

Holding out the lottery ticket to win a ride to another location, I’m stopped cold as the gate agent says, “Sir you’re on the next flight.” Stunned I look down at the ticket and see the wrong departure time. “Please step aside, this plane is full.” You mean I’ve been standing in line for the past 45 minutes for a flight I’m not on? What happened to me gate B3 to B21? Sheepishly I wander back to the concourse and start heading to gate A9 for the next flight, when it strikes me that I didn’t need to look at the monitors to know the next gate. I know the 7:40 flight is out of gate B21 and then the 8:55 flight is out of gate A9, then the 9:30 flight is gate B15 and the last flight at 9:55 during the summer is back at gate B21. This realization is deeply troubling to me as I follow the routine and slowly march to gate A9.

Some people might consider this insight and knowledge of airline operations as a badge of honor or a sign of a brilliant photographic mind, but I find it a sign of a hopeless routine of waiting for time to pass. I begin to think that maybe I need a vacation, observing the gates I’m traveling past on my way to A9. B15 Washington DC……no I was there last week. B13 Ft. Lauderdale…….we just got a project there, so I’ll be traveling there a lot. B11 Hartford……….out of the question I just came from there. B9 Detroit……..no way I had a project there a few years ago and I’ve been there enough for a long time. B7 Boston………I was there three weeks ago and will be going back next month. B5 New York……..another trip next month. After awhile I come to the conclusion that maybe a vacation is not such a great idea. I would just be standing in that line instead of this one.

Arriving at A9, I assume my place in the pre-ordained line, this time at the right gate. As the door opens for the flight crew to enter the jetway when I notice that it’s the crew that flies the Chicago-Kansas City-Baltimore-Islip route. Again my sense of well being is shaken by the fact that I can associate particular crews with particular routes. Worst of all the flight attendant smiles and waves as she passes, letting me know that she also recognizes me. I’m of no particular striking physical persona that would make me memorable, just another face in the crowd, in her case a crowd of thousands of new faces each week. Five legs a day at 225 per flight equal almost 6,000 passengers a week, but she remembers me? I must have crossed over into the realm of that stupid little short commercial that bludgeons the airways so frequently that you can’t ignore it. I need to ask this airline about my pension options when I retire, I’m putting in as much time as the crews.

The gentle vibrating of my cell phone is a welcome relief from the depressing thoughts of the retirement dinner the airline will hold for me. I’ve have not heard a ring tone from my phone for the past five years, I prefer to keep the settings on silent so I’m not the idiot that jumps up in the middle of a funeral because his phone begins belting out Barry Manilow. A recent study found that one third of cell phone calls in public are faked because the person is trying to impress the public into thinking they are important. One out of three of the idiots babbling about crap are doing it so I think they are somebody? I need to inform them that I have never found anyone with a cell phone crammed into their ear important, interesting or anything close to a form of intelligent life. Cell phones are an entire subject that I better not get started on.

Answering the phone I recognize the voice of my closest friend for well over 40 years. “Hey mon, you are not going to believe this I’m living your life right now……I’m stuck in Mr. Blue’s hell.”

Knowing that we are now entering our long running game of can you top this I start “Yeah I bet you haven’t been standing in the wrong line for the past hour?”

“No” he replies “I’m been sitting my ass on a broken plane in Seattle for the past three hours and they are now giving me the news that we will arrive in New York at 3:30 am.”

Breaking a smile I need more so I ask “So what’s up with the plane?”

Feeling the anger begin to well he says “They have to replace some stinking part and they don’t have the part here so they are flying it up on the next flight from Los Angeles”.

Knowing he is on the edge and I don’t have a prayer of winning this contest, I begin to badger him, “So what’s the big deal?”

With that little poke it comes rolling out “Dude! I’m in Seattle the home of Boeing, the world’s greatest airplane manufacturer in the world. I’m so close to the factory I can almost see where they make the parts from my seat on the runway and I’m on a fucking French made Airbus!!!!”

There comes a point in our simple lives when we gain comfort in the misfortune of others, smiling I reply “Hey I though you were the one who said how important of a global economy is.”

Interrupting me he says “Mr. Blue don’t go there, right now or else I’ll push this plane to Chicago just to kick your ass!”

In a friendship that has been forged into steel over the years, close the conversation “Hey sweetheart be sure to give me a call when land in New York I want to be sure you made it home okay.”

Placing the phone back into my pocket I hear him talking to himself” I can’t believe I’m Mr. Blue stuck on some god dam plane…………”

For a brief moment my life is brightened knowing that I’m not the only “dead man walking” today.

20060813

Leaning into the Light


“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us.”

Charles Dickens (1812 - 1870)
A Tale of Two Cities


Five sets of eyes separated by uncertainty and fear stare blankly into the blackness, not knowing what the future will demand. Alone in the darkness laid out as if for a funeral wake prostrate on cotton sheets in the small hours of the night they wait for an answer, they wait for a reason, they wait for courage, they wait for dawn to postpone the agony until night falls again. A single event has create a breach in the dam of their secure existence cascading change and chaos down on them in ways considered inconceivable such a short time ago. The quickly approaching torrents of change have been released to seek a new balance, reconstructing the landscape, cleansing the ground where we all found comfort and belonging. The only certainty is that we will not recognize the new day as we have for years gone by.

In the darkness, each of the five in absolute silence constructs dialogues to conversations that will never happen, replaying the discussions over and over until all the responses are perfected and routine. Each of us will live the event in the darkness a thousand times before it ever happens and yet we will have never crafted a version that matches the reality of the day. As the events are set into motion all we can do is hope that the new day will bring order to the chaos of change and begin constructing a new routine as the future is revealed. Staring into the void of darkness a weight of angst presses down on your chest shortening your breath into small uncomfortable small gasps in which you struggle to fill your lungs. Each breath no longer soothes and relaxes the soul but contributes to a sense of panic and hopelessness as the tightness grows. The silence is so consuming that that the labored attempt to inhale echoes in the emptiness until it fills the entire room robbing the mind of the illusion that we are in control of the future. Seeking relief we recall positive statements of affirmation which provides us strength.


“When you close your doors, and make darkness within, remember never to say that you are alone, for you are not alone; nay, God is within, and your genius is within. And what need have they of light to see what you are doing?”

Epictetus (55 AD - 135 AD)
Discourses

Every cell of the body is burning as if on fire from the adrenaline that is being pumped into the blood, a primitive relic of evolution which tells us that danger is eminent and in order to survive we must flee. The fingers and toes begin to tingle as every hair on the body stands like an antenna absorbing latent energy from the air. We float between the known and unknown on the edge of matter and energy. The only response is to remain motionless allowing this last surge of energy to dissipate like ripples on a pond. For a small moment we indulge a fantasy envisioning the relief of discarding our future by running to a distant shore where all the concerns and responsibilities of the world are left behind unable to find us in an imaginary game of hide and seek with the subconscious. The illusion is brief, for there is no solution in hiding, masking the wound only deepens the despair and hopelessness. Reality will continue to seek us out from our swaddled nest of denile.

“Do not pursue what is illusory - property and position: all that is gained at the expense of your nerves decade after decade and can be confiscated in one fell night. Live with a steady superiority over life - don't be afraid of misfortune, and do not yearn after happiness; it is after all, all the same: the bitter doesn't last forever, and the sweet never fills the cup to overflowing.”

Alexander Solzhenitsyn (1918 - )


The endless dialogues start over again with new insights, quietly seeking to find the land mines which are hidden in plain sight. In our darkness we are allowed to step on the land mines triggering havoc and destruction only to experience its consequence so we see through the debris a path of direction. Over and over again we live in an infinite number of simultaneous universes each in motion deciphering clues for seeing the future. The mind races attempting to exhaust infinity though brute force and determination, but our mind fails to catalogue the multitude of possibilities as a curtain of chaos obscures our thoughts.

“Strength is just an accident arising from the weakness of others.”

Joseph Conrad (1857 - 1924)
Heart of Darkness

The silence is deafening as my heartbeat pounds in my ears counting the seconds as they pass. In order to maintain sanity in the consummate void of silence, my ears begin to hear a slight buzz which reminds me of the white noise that would fill the room when the old black and white television sets would end the broadcast day and leave the air. My mind has had enough and is it distracting itself my processing white noise. Exhaustion overwhelms as my mind discards and unloads all of the infinity realities yet unresolved.

A faint glow begins to grow outside the window signaling an end to the darkness and dread. In a short while we will all be engaged in the false comfort of the daily routine, making believe that last night was only a nightmare and change is waiting further into the future somewhere past another night of staring into emptiness. This day, we will stare into these five sets of eyes seeking comfort in the fact that we can all ignore the realities of the future hidden in the shadow of darkness, where making believe that all is right bides time against the chaos of uncertainty. Each of us will set aside our fears until darkness comes again, but change is on its way and nothing we can do will dissuade that eventually.

“How is one to live a moral and compassionate existence when one is fully aware of the blood, the horror inherent in life, when one finds darkness not only in one's culture but within oneself? If there is a stage at which an individual life becomes truly adult, it must be when one grasps the irony in its unfolding and accepts responsibility for a life lived in the midst of such paradox. One must live in the middle of contradiction, because if all contradiction were eliminated at once life would collapse. There are simply no answers to some of the great pressing questions. You continue to live them out, making your life a worthy expression of leaning into the light.”

Barry Lopez

20060730

Twilight


“The summer night is like a perfection of thought.”
Wallace Stevens (1879 - 1955)

Life is returning to the world after spending the afternoon hiding from the searing summer sun which is retreating over the horizon in triumph. The baked earth is striped with long thin shadows that stretch like ribbons revealing the rich texture of the ground. The afternoon has punished any movement with the only sounds in the scorched grass are the screams of crickets enduring the sweltering temperatures which effortlessly drift past the century mark. So brutal is the relentless assault of the summer heat that every cloud is consumed leaving a featureless pale blue sky void of white. The colors of the sky are rapidly changing as the ebbing light washes the top limbs of a majestic oak tree that is sheltering me with its shade. Laying close to the ground the view is blurred by heat waves dancing with seductive pirouettes on the submissive dry withered plain.

Squirrels in a slow deliberate lumber, limb down a tree trunk to the ground in a cautious retreat from the heat. They immediately prostrate themselves flat on the ground with their small limbs extended to the four cardinal points of the compass as if they were skydiving. The afternoon temperature has risen to a point where the squirrels can no longer keep cool and they lay in contact with the ground in the shade of the oak trees to dissipate body heat.

A nose emerges from the cool water as I rise to breathe the sultry air. The water embraces me as my body floats effortlessly allowing my thoughts to escape the confines of the subconscious radiating into the silence of the moment. Ever since I can remember I’ve been connected and drawn to water. Water restores tranquility and makes me whole. Water nurtures and quenches my soul as I seek solace between heartbeats. I find myself seeking water at twilight when the day disappears into night. Tao teaching believes that there is a lake of eternity within each of us and if we are still and pure without thought we can travel to a place within ourselves. When inner thoughts are calmed the ripples on the surface of the lake begin to clear and disappear revealing a reflection. When we have mastered silence we can peer into this reflection of ourselves and discover the essence of our soul. In the silence of the water we become whole and connected with all things living. It is only in this connected state of silence do we really begin to understand the complexity and interdependency of life on earth. As a society we have lost this connection with the world and it is our greatest failure.

Songbirds are the first to arise from hiding as a hint of coolness returns to the shadows, emerging from the deep recesses of the trees to trumpet the retreat of the sun darting across the sky in celebration. Music fills the air as dozens of voices are heard signaling a final opportunity to seek nourishment before darkness. Light is painting soft warm stokes against the ground with each moment as the sky regains its crystal blue hue. Dappled sunlight jumps across leaves briefly showcasing the margins as if they have been embroidered with golden thread.

In a sweeping motion my arms extend down into the cool depths pulling me deep below the surface as my back arches gently guiding me to the bottom. Weightless I drift allowing my limbs to trail behind me like the tail on a kite. Water caresses my face washing away sadness and toil, washing away disappointment and loss, washing away loneliness and longing, leaving a tranquil contentment that fills my torso then soothes my mind. Resisting the urge to stay submerged a forehead delicately breaks the surface, extending my hands I face the sky with my eyes closed to inhale the fragrant smell air once again.

During the heat of the day the mighty oak trees have yielded thousands of gallons of water to the dry air traveling through hundreds of feet of roots and limbs. Water that resides deep in soil and limestone fissures was deposited by the cool spring rains months earlier. Resisting the loss of this life force, the oak tree has fought the day with stomata clenched tightly conserving every drop of precious sustenance. Every tree celebrates the retreat of the sun with a deep exalted sigh as the stomata open expelling a rich perfume of oxygen which silently drifts to the ground bathing the air in a delightful organic breathe. You can almost hear the trees breathe as subtle trace of humidity returns the scent of nature to the air.

The sun is long gone but the sky maintains a slight orange glow of a hot iron removed from a smoldering fire. A single green flicker of light briefly illuminates the air as the first firefly awakes. Slowly the sky comes alive with fleeting spots of twinkling green light as more and more fireflies take to flight. The North Star appears low in the horizon as if a single firefly was frozen in time. Slowly each firefly is transformed into a star as the heavens paint the blue stillness. The last of the birds in flight are now featureless silhouettes against an open sky as they race back to the nest for the evening, as new series of silhouettes dart from between the trees with a frantic erratic spinning movement. In zigzag bursts they head toward the water appearing to dive into its depth at greater speed, but at the surface turn and retreat to the stars leaving a single ripple radiating from the water. Few people take the time at twilight to stare at the sky in complete stillness in order to see the local bats as drink water preparing for the long night of flight. Remaining motionless in the water facing the sky the bats touches the surface so close that I almost hear their inaudible voice. These silhouettes are typically the last living objects discernable in the evening sky as the crickets begin to sing the summer chorus.

Twilight is a brief moment of grace that holds spiritual wonder with the power to restore the soul. It’s a bridge to a place of mysticism and enlightenment where humans can begin to understand the beauty of delicate balance of life. Twilight mourns the death of the day and celebrates the birth of the mysteries of the night. It’s a time of solicitude and reverence that has marked the passing of millions of days but each time it’s an original masterpiece in motion.


"O Twilight! Spirit that dost render birth
To dim enchantments; melting heaven with earth,
Leaving on craggy hills and running streams
A softness like the atmosphere of dreams."

Caroline Norton (1808–1877)

20060727

Washington Still Life


Night is washing away the city as I shut the industrial blinds over the single small window in my hotel room. At that moment I am unaware of which city I’m in since they all meld into one after awhile, when my eyes are drawn to the brightly lit Washington Memorial standing as a gleaming sentinel in the distance of an otherwise unfamiliar skyline. The sponsor of tomorrow’s seminar, Graham has just left allowing me to remove my shoes and loosen my tie. I am unable to focus my eyes as I squint at the small print on the placard that instructs me on how to connect to the internet. It’s amusing that internet access is provided for free but there is never a network cable in the room that allows you to utilize the connection. The idea of me walking to the front desk while a well dressed night manager, who speaks broken English searches the back room for another cable is insurmountable and beyond my physical comprehension. At this point in the evening the news is never good, plus the ability to resolve any issue of concern is limited. I dismiss the thought of accessing my email as the light from the overhead lamp all of a sudden seems exceedingly harsh accentuating the dull pounding above my temples.

This is the part of the day where a few moments of comfort are rationed out in thimble sized portions as I stare at a blank wall with my feet propped up on the edge on the bed. The relaxed posture is more a sign of numbing exhaustion than restorative rest as it requires too great an effort to move into another position. The day has been uneventful as I traveled a familiar route in an undersized regional jet next to an oversized governmental employee, who assumed I was a security threat the second she laid eyes on me. It was a day that I have repeated many times over the years, a day that requires no thought as it has become a reflex. Exiting the jetway, I smile to myself as I pasted gate 23 looking for the distraught faces of the broken toys, all the while knowing that my return flight tomorrow will place me in harms way as I attempt to depart gate 23. We will cross that bridge when we get to it, carefully tucking that future experience into a waiting to be filed portion of my tired brain.

Travel is full of surprises that are uncontrollable and unpredictable. It becomes an exercise in insanity to manage or hope to control the unplanned events. One must act as water would, take the path of least resistance; take the shape of the vessel that confines you. Today the taxi ride to the hotel in beltway traffic and the check in process took longer than flying half way across the country. It requires great mental conditioning to maintain an appearance of calm when all your thoughts are focused on pimp slapping the daylights out of the lady at the desk arguing with the manager over not getting her fifty cent portion of cheap instant coffee replenished in her room. Some troubling days, people cross over into the realm of hideous ugly insects that need to be extinguished or crushed under foot. I am concerned that I am finding it much easier to despise the average individual than ever before.

A powerful click in the corner startles me as the ancient hotel air conditioner roars to life making the drapes wave and part open in response. The air is immediately filled with a faint musty smell of mold as my skin senses the rise in humidity. The distracting loud sound temporarily makes me forget what I’m thinking about as my thoughts shift to tomorrow’s seminar. Graham mentioned that registration was much higher than expected and he had been told to expect almost a hundred people. The event organizers were nervous that they may run out of space and need to move the seminar to another location in the morning, which is always a recipe for disaster.

Why do I have no apprehension or uneasiness in tomorrow’s activities? Is it that I’m so trained that the routine has become second nature or have I desensitized my emotions so that it is of no real importance to me? Life will go on regardless of tomorrow’s outcome. My detachment peaks my interest as I delve into its origin. I will travel to a University in the morning I have never visited before and lecture for two hours to a hundred professionals none of which I have ever met before. I took the opportunity to completely rewrite and contemporize my presentation which usually keeps the adrenaline pumping and keeps my delivery fresh. My subject matter will be contrary to what the group wants to hear and the message will not be received well by many in attendance. In the past this level of uncertainty would keep me awake the night before, but not anymore. The more I ignore the audience’s feelings, the more I track mud all over their beliefs, the more I insult their intellect about not seeing the truth, the more I am respected as an authority. I have become immune from their laws of civility and social order. I have become their grin reaper, their black raven of change, their ghost of Christmas future, having little responsibility to heal or restore the path of destruction I create in their tenets and beliefs. Why are we so complaisant of the status quo requiring a sharp slap up the side of the head to start us challenging our everyday approach to life?

A small bead of sweat rolls down my temple as I notice that the hot air in the room is thick and dead waiting for the air conditioner to roar back to life again. I smile at the mess in the corner of the room from dinner. Graham was kind enough to bring me a rare treat for dinner from Jerry’s Seafood, its house specialty “crab bomb” with all the fixings including a cup of fresh Maryland crab soup. Since my flight was late and the seminar starts early he drove across town to pick up dinner. It was quite a scene, the two of us eating a three course gourmet take-out seafood dinner on the embarrassingly small table in the corner of the hotel room. Travel is always the ultimate contradiction of experiences.

Once again a loud click echoes in the room signaling the return to life of the air conditioner. The air fills with musty humidity as the drapes again parts open. Finding a momentary surplus of energy I get up from the chair and walk over to the window to insert my face into the cool breeze. Wondering if the Washington Memorial remains lit all night or does it disappear leaving only another dark unfamiliar skyline, I pull open the drapes. I am relieved to see the memorial’s bright white shape against the warm gray horizon. I stare a long time into its pure glowing form aimlessly drifting in thought about its symbolic power. Another click resonates from the window foretelling the hot still silence to follow. Walking to the bed I look back at the corner of the room and pull out the camera. Snapping a photo I turn the camera over and preview the image. Quietly I whisper to myself “just another Washington still life.”

“It is an illusion that youth is happy, an illusion of those who have lost it; but the young know they are wretched for they are full of the truthless ideal which have been instilled into them, and each time they come in contact with the real, they are bruised and wounded.”

W. Somerset Maugham (1874 - 1965)
'Of Human Bondage', 1915

20060723

Then There Was Silence



The right word may be effective, but no word was ever as effective as a rightly timed pause.
Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)

For the last couple weeks I’m been distracted having located a distant cousin which has forwarded me some family memoirs and manuscripts. They are well documented with letters and signed photographs of European royalty and business leaders. They describe personal experiences with heads of state and business negotiations throughout Europe, Middle East, Mediterranean and Africa. I have been consumed with researching the manuscripts some of which are 250 pages. I am considering writing a book on the subject. In the mean time I continue to post photographs. Click the sidebar to see the new photos.

20060708

Life on the Vine



"In the hearts and minds of the people, the grapes of wrath were growing heavy for the vintage."

John Steinbeck (1902 - 1968)
The Grapes of Wrath

The sun peaks through the soft white clouds drifting in a crystal blue sky, highlighting the lush green slopes of the Blue Mountains providing a stunning backdrop to the morning. The rolling foothills frame the waving green fields of alfalfa hugging the bottomland. The views are expansive extending miles as white tail deer and wild turkey dot the foothills out of reach. Vines precisely trussed along thin galvanized wires secured to weathered fence posts dance over the slopes providing a delightful visual harmony.

Standing next to me is a tall thin man with a proud Marlboro jaw and piercing eyes the color of a clear blue sky. He is dressed in jeans and a simple western style shirt with pearl snaps as he leans on the hood of a big new Ford pickup truck. Facing the morning sun the salt of age glitters in his black pepper hair as he shades his eyes looking over the land that has been in his family for generations. His love of the land is apparent as he describes the history of every small feature of the field below while his other hand gently points out the landscape as if caressing the nude back of a beautiful woman.

According to the historical society, “the Walla Walla Valley was one of the first areas between the Rockies and Cascades to be permanently settled. Lewis and Clark traveled through the county in 1805 and 1806, making friends with the Walla Walla Indians on their way to the Pacific Ocean. Fur traders carved out early settlements and trading posts and the early 1800's. Missionaries Marcus and Narcissa Whitman settled here in 1836”.

“With the lure of nearby gold in 1860, Walla Walla quickly became a commercial, banking and manufacturing center, and soon became the largest city in Washington Territory. The City of Walla Walla was incorporated in 1862. After the gold rush ended, farming anchored the community. It remains vital to the current economy. As a group, Walla Walla County's farms are the oldest in the state. More than half of the County's 47 centennial farms were established before 1875”.

Years ago, many Native American tribes inhabited the region, including the Walla Walla, Nez Perce, Cayuse and Umatilla. Walla Walla is a Native American name that means "many waters" or "small, rapid streams." Standing on the slopes of the rolling hills, his strong baritone voice softens as he describes how the emerging wine industry has changed the value of land which has risen tenfold in less than a decade. Even this dramatic increase in land value still represents about one tenth the cost per acre compared to Napa Valley, so the development pressure will remain unabated for years. This increase in value in the family property has created a tax inheritance burden which can not be carried by his children and grandchildren, so after considerable soul searching the family has decided to develop the property into environmentally sensitive single family estates. The property is surrounded on all sides by some of the finest vineyards of the state and quite possibly the nation.

Climbing back into the truck for a view from the far ridge, he begins to tell me about how he began growing grapes for the local wine industry almost 17 years ago. Providing a stunning backdrop, the Blue Mountains frame the valley that is home to more than 60 wineries and as many vineyards, all of whom work hand in hand to produce world class wines of exceptional character. Excellent examples of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah have earned the Walla Walla Valley national and international acclaim in recent years. Other grape varieties such as Chardonnay, Semillon, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese also produce wines of subtlety, balance, and complexity. In the fertile ground between the vineyards are massive orchards growing hundreds of acres of cherries, apples and plums as well as onions and potatoes. We pass a large round promontory called Mount Fuji which is a single orchard of a hundred acres of Fuji apples most of which are exported to Japan.

Passing weathered basalt outcroppings as we climb a bumpy gravel road the conversation quiets giving me the perfect opportunity to indulge my lifelong fascination with wine and grapes. Speaking with great passion, he patiently answers my continuous stream of questions. Selecting the right location for growing grapes is a combination of art and science. The grapes are located on the slopes when they received an optimum balance of exposure to the sun and shelter from the heat. The vineyards occupy slopes to cool the grapes in the evening when cool air flows down from the hilltops. The bottomland valley stores heat during the hot summer nights providing the grapes little relief, so it is rare to see any vines on flat bottomland. Most of the vineyards are laid out so that the rows run north and south providing foliage maximum exposure to the sun during each day. Each vineyard has a yen garden like appearance as if sculpted by a giant rake.

Walla Walla has developed a soft sustainable viticulture practice called “Vinea”. Attempting to establish Walla Walla as a leader in sustainable viticulture, the growers and vintners formed The Winegrowers’ Sustainable Trust which is a voluntary group that have embraced a covenant with environmental, economic and social sustainability concurrent with their production of grapes and wine. The Trust defines sustainable viticulture as “ecologically sound, economically viable, and socially supportive. Because it is more a philosophical approach to viticulture than a set of farming practices, the specific practices vary depending on the specific environmental and social issues important to an appellation.”

The Trust describes how Vinea’s sustainable viticulture practices compare to organic and biodynamic farming practices. “Viticulture can be “sustainable” without being “organic” or “biodynamic”. Also, some organic or biodynamic operations may not be sustainable. Organic farming certifies that the grower has excluded the use of any synthetic agricultural chemicals. Biodynamic farming combines the tenants of organic farming with practices that are intended to influence the metaphysical aspects of the farm (such as increasing vital life force), or to adapt the farm to natural rhythms (such as planting seeds during certain lunar phases) as well. However, approaches to management of healthy soils can be similar between the different farming systems.”

Unlike Napa Valley these vineyards are not cultivated accommodating a cover crop that builds soil fertility and biology, but also provides habitat for beneficial insects which control pest populations. An important consideration in grape production is frost protection with many of the vineyards being equipped with large fans and misting systems. Growers will spray the grapes with water when temperature approach freezing generates heat when the water turns to ice protecting from grape from damage. In “Vinea” leaving a cover crop provides more surface area for the water to cling to enhancing frost protection. Many of the vineyards include the tradition of planting a single rose bush at the end of the row of vines. Historically the rose was planted as an early indicator of frost damage and before the advent of modern technology a grower would know that actions to protect the vineyard from frost were necessary if the rose petals started suffering.

Some of the wineries grow their own grapes but most purchase each season’s grapes from growers. Wineries will contract with the growers to produce grapes on long term leases from a specific acreage of in a vineyard. Quality-oriented wineries now negotiate grape purchase contracts based on acres, rather than sugar level and tonnage. This allows the winemaker, rather than the vineyard owner, to decide how much fruit the vines will carry and when the grapes are ready to begin harvesting. The average cost for grapes in the valley at about $7500 per acre and the yields can range from two to twelve tons per acre. For quality wines from the Walla Walla valley the yield per acre will be managed at between one and three tons.

Vineyards vary in the spacing between the rows and between the individual vines. Depending upon the age and variety, some are more productive per vine than others, some produce larger clusters of fruit and some yield more juice per pound of fruit. Wine makers and their facilities also vary in the amount of juice they are willing or able to squeeze from the grapes. In rough averages when considering grape production one pound of grapes equal about 4.5 clusters with between 40 and 60 grapes per cluster. In other words it takes 9000 clusters to equal a ton of grapes. One ton of grapes will produce 60 cases or 720 bottles of wine. So a single bottle requires between 440 and 660 grapes. On average in the Walla Walla valley one acre of vineyard produces from 2250 to 4500 bottles of wine.


The vines are a very aggressive crop that must be prepared early each year and merit special attention. Each stage requires meticulous work, and traditional skills primarily focused on manual labor. The first element for controlling production to come: winter pruning, followed by trimming that suppresses excess shoots in the spring. Each different grape variety undergoes a maturity test which defines optimum maturity according to the quality of wine desired.

After the roots and stalk have developed, the untended vine would grow wildly, spending most of its energy on spreading its shoots and tendrils. If left to nature, a single vine could cover as much as an acre of ground, with the roots developing wherever the branches touched earth. In ancient times, this was allowed, a practice called layering. Normal practice of the time was to prop up the vines to prevent the fruit from rotting or rodents from eating it. The Romans even planted elms in the vineyards, simply to support the vines. These ancient viticulturists came to realize that, instead of allowing the vines to grow outward in all directions, training the vines in rows with canes pointing upward produced better, more even-ripening grapes.

Jim LaMar an expert in wine production notes, “in 1860, Dr. Jules Guyot published the first of three treatises describing regional traditional vinicultural and viticultural practices which documented the cultivation practices of vineyards which had gone unwritten for the previous five thousand years. It wasn't until the recommendations of Guyot, however, and the massive replanting due to phylloxera that vineyards typically had an orderly, row by row appearance”.

In describing the care of the vines he writes, “it was discovered that better-quality fruit will grow on vines that are pruned back to distribute the bearing wood evenly over the vine. So, in the winter months, when the leaves have dropped and the vines are empty of sap, they are pruned back almost to the main stem. Pruning is an art of delicate balance. Pruning also facilitates cultivation, disease control and harvesting, when the vines are trained to grow in a particular shape. It is a skill that requires experience and judgment which is only done by hand. There are only two basic pruning methods: cane-pruning and spur-pruning, also known as head-pruning. Spur-pruned (head-pruned) vines are usually found in older vineyards. Spurs are the canes (branches) trimmed back to only a pair of buds. Each bud will become a shoot which grows to a cane that bears the crop. In the winter after the harvest, the top cane is removed and the bottom cane trimmed back to a two-bud spur. Spurs are often distributed around the head of the vine, like spokes around a wheel. The top is left open for sun-exposure and this method often leaves the vine in somewhat of a "goblet" shape. These vineyards can only be hand-harvested. Some head-pruned vines are converted after a time to grow on trellis wires. Head pruning is used only in warm growing regions, because it encourages massive vegetation that slows ripening. It also makes harvesting more difficult.

In the cane-pruning method, from one to four, one-year-old canes, each with six to fourteen fruit buds, are trained along trellis wires. This is also referred to as "cordon" (French for "arm") pruning, since the vine looks as if it is stretching out it arms. Because one-year-old canes must be used to bear the fruit each year, the cane-pruners therefore must train the current fruiting canes and at the same time consider which spurs to train for next season's fruiting canes. In France, a single cane with a single spur is known as Guyot simple pruning and two canes and spurs as the Double Guyot, because Dr. Guyot was so influential in promoting these methods. Modern trellising methods vary by variety, geography, geology, harvesting methods and winemaking style! Two, three or four-wire, vertical, lateral, cordon and other configurations of trellis may exist in neighboring vineyards. There are stakes made of wood, metal and those combining the two materials. The different patterns primarily affect exposure to sun and wind and accessibility of fruit for hand or machine harvesting.
”


Vines respond to early pruning and the reduction of leaf foliage by producing flower sets. Grapevines produce fruit only from one-year-old wood, called a cane; thus, long or short canes should be retained during pruning. Although 60 or more buds can easily be left on a grapevine, a crop of 3 tons per acre cannot be expected unless the vine has sufficient vigor to support such a fruit load. To determine the potential fruit capacity of a vine at pruning time, growers can use the concept of balanced pruning. The principle is valid for all grapes in general, but varies in magnitude from one cultivar to another. Growers control the grape yield and quality per acre by systematically dropping fruit or selectively pruning the grape clusters whereby concentrating the flavor and intensity into fewer grapes. Depending on climate, temperature and rainfall the grower may drop fruit up to three times before harvesting. The key to flavor and intensity is stressing the vine so that it works hard and struggles. This requires precise control of soil moisture levels through automated irrigation systems. The worst thing that can happen to a crop of grapes is to endure a wet rainy period just before harvest, which will wash away or dilute the intense flavors of the maturing grape. Varieties differ in the amount of heat required to mature their fruit. One-hundred to 120 days after flowering, the grapes should be ripe. The harvest may start mid-August in warm areas, to late-September in the coolest ones.

An important indicator of grape maturity is the sugar level. Sugar (more exactly sucrose) is measured in the United States using the Brix scale, which uses specific gravity to determine the percentage of sugar, by weight. A 25 °Brix solution has 25 grams of sucrose sugar per 100 grams of liquid. Or, to put it another way, there are 25 grams of sucrose sugar and 75 grams of water in the 100 grams of solution. In Walla Walla wine grapes are normally harvested between 21° and 25° Brix. From the 1960s through the 1980s, wineries often paid growers based on sugar content and the tonnage. Fruit maturity is not, however a simple matter of sugar content. Acid content is every bit as important to quality and flavor and even more so to aroma constituents. Grapes will respire acid (especially malic acid) as they ripen and this loss is greater in warmer vineyard locations.

As grapes ripen, sugar, color and pH increase as total acidity decreases. For the highest quality wine, grapes need to develop aroma and taste characteristics that only result from physiological maturity and sugar-acid balance. Some signs of this maturity are the browning of the grape seeds (pips) and lignation, which is the browning and drying of the berry stems. But by far the most important indicator of maturity is the taste of the grapes.

The sun had started to sneak behind the Blue Mountains staining the sky with pastel hues when I finally realized I have been peppering my guide with questions for almost eight hours. In an understanding and mentoring manner he endured my barrage of inquires because we were two kindred spirits sharing a deep love of the land with all its abundance and wonder. He had recognized in me, like himself a primal need to be grounded to the land, to breathe in every summer breeze, to dig my hands deep in the soil just to smell its rich perfume, to find purpose and sustenance in caring for the abundance of the land. In the process we have walked between the rows of vines examining the clusters in great detail as if they were masterpieces of art hung in a gallery while local laborers set about the first dropping of fruit. We passed each new winery in an old barn or convert shed while he explained the type of wine being produced, the production volume in cases and more other often than not with a humble voice and cheerful glee in his eye he would whisper that he supplied those grapes.

Rounding a small hill the town is visible as my guide makes the suggestion that we meet his wife in town for dinner at one of the local restaurants. Embarrassed he qualifies his invitation with a comment that the town needs more quality dining establishments. Arriving at the small restaurant we are escorted to a small table outside on the terrace facing the Blue Mountains where his wife is already seated waiting for us. Quickly we polish off the bottle of chilled Chenin Blanc which his wife has been drinking. I’ve never been able to identify all the subtle flavors and aromas, although my thirst and the long day gave the wine a delightful sweet flavor of honeysuckle. You will never confuse me with a wine snob, because I drink wine not as status symbol, but because I enjoy it so immensely. Unfortunately the only flaw in my thinking is the fact that the better the wine is the more I like it.

In a short few minutes the Chenin Blanc was gone. My guide immediately reaches for the wine list and asked me what I would like to drink with dinner. The question is absurd to me because the answer is so obvious. “What I want to taste some of the grapes you have grown.” Slightly embarrassed again he admits that the wine list contains over twenty vintages that he was produced grapes for. His wife offers her thoughts and sits back in her seat smiling knowing the answer. After scanning the list for a moment he calls the waiter over and tells me “I think you might like this one.”

The dinner conversation is pleasant and comfortable while the waiter brings the bottle back and opens it pouring the claret nectar into each of our glasses. Without pretense I swirl the wine around in the glass to open the bouquet slightly and take a sip. In order to savor all the richness I close my eyes. There is no need to break the silence of the moment as a smile clings to my face. No word can better express my contentment than sitting in silence in the presence of kindred spirits with the fading light coloring the mountains in the distance soft purple hues. I pick up my camera a take a picture of the sunset and recall the old saying “If only you could capture time in a bottle”, at least for the moment I believe they did.




“Wine is bottled poetry.”

Robert Louis Stevenson